Oak Farm Table

I was recently commissioned to make a moderate sized farm table. I have enough reclaimed lumber for the frame, but I had to do some looking around my favorite lumber spots in the state to find some wide boards for the top.

For some reason, 8/4 Oak was difficult to find in moderately large widths. The buyers were looking for wide boards, and so I took the extra time to find some quality lumber with width and a decent amount of character. 

Checking for nails (and bullets)

I started separating the Chestnut and Oak beams for the frame. The first step is more like demolition than woodworking, pulling nails and cutting rotten chunks off the beams.

I try to keep as much character as possible on projects like these. As you can see in this photo, the timber-framed brace piece being re-purposed for the table will keep the hole originally bored for a peg.

The first cut is always exciting.

Frame pieces cut to length and cleaned up. Time to go inside and build a frame.

On the left; Framing chisel and home-made mallet I use on large mortises. On the right; the older mallet and bench chisel I used to use. Big difference.

I usually chop thick timber mortises on the sawhorse, as it's lower than the bench and easier on the shoulders.

Big saw for big tenons

Truing the feet

Using winding sticks to check for twist on the main beam

Starting to come together

Gorgeous straight-grained White Oak I'll be using for the trunnels.

Making trunnels

This is what I'm shooting for, octagonal shaped straight grained wood that fits in the hole with moderate pressure.

Took a break and made a top sample board for the customer

Fitting the main beam

"First one hole, then the other." Off-setting the peg holes to draw-bore for mechanical strength. I mark the tenon with the bit, then take the joint apart and drill about 3/32" closer to the tenon wall

Parts planed, sanded and ready for assembly. I took care to leave saw marks and layered colors on the frame.

Buttons to secure the top to the frame completed 

I assembled the trestle in two parts, the ends first, and then the trestle proper. The long open time of Hide glue helps when joining big assemblies. I coaxed it together with a mallet and clamps, then glued in the White Oak wedges and drove the pegs home. I'll give a day before trimming it up, and switch over to the top.  

The photos from my phone don't capture colors and shades well, but I am working on another sample board, trying out a few types of pre-stain dye before applying the actual stain to get just the right tone for the top.

Stain applied over dye

Top glued up and trued

Keys installed to stabilize cracks

Frame joinery trimmed up

The next sequence of pics show the transformation of the top as it goes through the finishing process. Again, the color quality on the screen doesn't show what your eyes see in person, which is why I make samples for the customer to choose from.